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These wines are, without question, among the most exciting wines we have discovered in the last two years.
We've tried before to contextualize Hammelmann's wines. We've compared them to Rebholz (the nearest geographically), Schäfer-Fröhlich (perhaps the closest stylistically?), Vetter, Weiser-Künstler and Jonas Dostert.
Perhaps we should introduce a few other reference points: How about J.J. Prüm, Willi Schaefer, Florian Lauer, Egon Müller?
We're being a bit facetious of course; these are the Mosel masters of the Kabinett. And a Kabinett is perhaps the most unlikely wine you'd expect to come from the southern Pfalz, a warmer land of richer, riper wines.
Yet here we are, again, with another inexplicable wine from Lukas Hammelmann.
In certain ways, this is very much a Pfalz Kabinett: It is powerful, broad and deep. There is a depth and ripeness of fruit, a gushing glaze that unfurls itself across the palate. The fruit is technicolor - kaleidoscopic - a medley of bright lemon and lime, orange oils. Vibrant green apples shimmer as riper stone fruits rise from the depth to make your mouth salivate in the strongest of ways. The effect is a bit dizzying honestly.
And right as your palate begins to bring this spectrum of data points into some sort of focus, the afterburners engage - 11 grams of acidity push the throttle to the max and the ripeness and texture of the wine transforms into pure, non-material energy - a reverberation of minerals with all the potency of electrons whirling about for an unbelievably long finish.
As a bit of context, Mosel Kabinetts will most often achieve their delicacy and lightness with acidities in the 9s and 10s and, yes, sometimes above. These acids will contend with residual sugars in the 40s and 50s and above.
Hammelmann's Kabinett clocks in at around 40 grams of residual sugar met by an angry 11 grams of acid.
Keep in mind these numbers are just numbers - there are a billion other things influencing the shape and feel, the experience, of a wine. But these numbers provide a fascinating overview, a curious context for what is simply a singular Kabinett from this amazing Kabinett vintage.
And maybe we just have to finish where we began: Here we are with another inexplicable wine from Lukas Hammelmann.
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