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Moritz Kissinger
new releases from the Rheinhessen
new perspectives on limestone

{ Kissinger's wines offer a revelatory new perspective on the Rheinhessen's limestone, with influences from Champagne and the Jura, Burgundy and beyond. }
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So much of what we wrote from our last Kissinger offer still feels so wildly poignant that maybe we don't have to do that much writing? Obviously this offer is a selection of new releases - full details on all the wines below.

Yet, part of me wants to just write "IYKYK" (as we did last time) because Moritz Kissinger has only released a handful of wines and many of them have become something of a phenomenon in Germany, including the Chardonnay in this offer. Yes, this Chardonnay is one of the impossible-to-find, ultra-dork German collectibles.

Seventy-two bottles came to the U.S.; Robert and I are thirsty and so sixty are available to the lucky few after we take our tariff.

I will say the amount of emails and IG DMs I've gotten about Moritz's wines is unprecedented, perhaps only surpassed by inquiries for Keller, which is funny because Keller's enthusiastic reception of Kissinger's wines has for sure helped feed the fire in Germany and beyond.

But please understand these are very hard wines to contextualize; there is a lot going on here. We'll do our best to be both complete and concise, to try and explain the hype, the magic and the beauty of Moritz Kissinger's wines.

I suppose what makes these wines so revelatory is the style, which, when you approach them through the lens of many Rheinhessen wines (most of which are grandiose yet crystalline dry Rieslings), they feel shocking, discombobulating, disorienting. Kissinger's wines are more relaxed, wider. They use their textural qualities in an unapologetic way; they have an approachable honesty that isn't rustic exactly, but it is maybe jarring - the degree of clarity, the forthrightness.

And then, with the second sip you approach the wines more as Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc (whether still or sparkling), or as Riesling, grown on limestone without thinking about the cultural baggage of the Rheinhessen, or of Germany at large, and they make perfect fucking sense. These wines are absolutely what they should be.

I've had this thought on multiple occasions tasting Mortiz's wines: "How did no one make wines like this before?"

They feel simultaneously so original and absolutely obvious and perfect - like they've always been around... or should have been. They feel like cousins of iconic French regions and wines - Champagne, Jura, Burgundy - authentically filtered through the soil of the Rheinhessen, by a young winemaker who has grown up on this soil.

Moritz Kissinger as a person has a warmth and an openness that, like his wines, feels both incredibly refreshing and also somehow familiar - and not in a chummy or cheesy way. I've had two tastings with Mortiz in the past two years, both of them involving numerous friends of his, other young winemakers (and their wines) and a parade of wines from around the world - unicorns and trophies, oddballs and curiosities, everything and the kitchen sink. These tastings end up feeling more like events... and then maybe parties. Suffice it to say Mortiz has an incredible energy, a curiosity, a passion and sociability that maybe puts him at the center (or very close to it) of something that really feels like a movement of some young growers in the Rheinhessen.

It is such a beautiful, absolutely magical moment in German wine; it is a renaissance and we're in the very heart of it all.

While Moritz is a fourth-generation winemaker, he is only the second generation in his family to bottle his own wines; his father began before him in 1986. The family estate is about 14 hectares total, though Moritz is only farming around two hectares at the moment for his own production. While this will likely grow, for the moment these are very rare bottles of wine. The estate is located in Uelversheim, a village located in the eastern part of central Rheinhessen.

You can define it by where it is not: Uelversheim is south and slightly west of the Roter Hang and the famous village of Nierstein. Uelversheim is north and slightly east of Westhofen and the sites made famous by Keller in the south.

It is exactly between these two famous landmarks.

Yet, if at the moment Uelversheim is defined by where it is not, there is a very good chance that in the next decade this place will be well known for what Moritz Kissinger is doing here.

Kissinger's 2021 Riesling is perhaps the most predictable of the bunch, or the most expected? If for no other reason than it is a dry Riesling from the Rheinhessen. Then again, while the supremely elegant nose is awash with delicate notes of citrus and stone fruit, beeswax and flowers, the palate is a hammer. This wine is dense, compact and gripping. Unlike the 2020 which was direct-pressed, the 2021 (presumably because of the high-acid nature of the vintage) spent about three days on the skin, and one feels the structure.

Kissinger's 2020 Chardonnay is, well, awesome and deserves the hype. This is from an old-vine parcel and was direct-pressed. It is deep and coiled up, tense and nervous. This needs some time but it is a superb, superb wine.

Kissinger's NV "Winzersekt" is mostly (or all?) 2020 Weissburgunder, though the exact cuvée will change each year depending on the vintage. The idea is to make an easier, lighter and more approachable sparkling. Moritz's sparkling Blanc de Blancs will be released later. Still, this is another wine that shows Moritz's chops, his touch, his sensibilities. Moritz spends a lot of time in Champagne and in general, the sparkling wines of Germany are going to be a force to reckon with - here's exhibit A. I'd guess, based on the gazillion-or-so dollars Champagne has spent marketing itself, that it will take some time for German wines to edge into the market, but it's going to happen.

This offer is now closed. If you need help finding the wines please email

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