NV Kissinger "Winzersekt" Nr.3 - $40

The once and future sparkling?

We've written a lot about Moritz Kissinger and the new Rheinhessen. If you do want more, you can find a long diatribe here.

Today, however we focus on one of Kissinger's most passionate specialties: bubbles.

This is only Kissinger's third-ever "Winzersekt" - the appropriately named "Winzersekt" Nr. 3. Yet this is the first time we've been able to offer this wine out on its own terms; quantities never really allowed such a focus before.

For $40 this is one of Germany's most unique and expressive sparkling wines. And for once, we can say: go deep. We should be able to fulfill all but the wildest orders.

This wine deserves the focus (and the cellar space) and not only from the clichéd (yet still wildly true) aspect that you get here, in the Rheinhessen, a wine that would cost 2x to 3x the price if it were from Champagne.

In truth, sparkling wines are one of the most exciting new developments in German wine, while also, yes, being one of its oldest traditions. There was, at one time, a deep cultural connection between Germany and Champagne. The names one comes across in Champagne - Krug, Mumm, Heidsieck - speak to this cultural cross-pollination. 

Yet, one must also admit that the Germans largely lost this quality sparkling heritage in the post-war period.

A small group of growers made compelling sparkling wines over the last few decades; they made sparkling wines of intent. Yet it is only in the last five or so years that truly remarkable wines are beginning to emerge. Kissinger's "Winzersekt" is one of the most compelling.

Kissinger has a deft and undeniable touch; he has spent a lot of time in Champagne. Yet what's most interesting about the wine, about this new genre of sparkling German wines, is not how similar to Champagne they are, but how they are different.

Kissinger's "Winzersekt" Nr. 3 is for sure his most complex. With a blend of one-third Pinot Noir, one-third Pinot Blanc and one-third Chardonnay the palate is awash in citrus, ginger, brioche, fine, dried spices and a very rigorous, saline acidity. With around 80% of the cuvée coming from vintage 2022, there is a youthful, taut, dense, austerity. This wine is tightly coiled. With the remaining 20% coming from a solera containing mostly 20/21, there is also depth and complexity.

Yet give this wine time. Or, if you have ever decanted a sparkling wine, go for it.

If the idea of the "Winzersekt" is to make a lighter, easier and more approachable sparkling, this specific cuvée I think very much overdelivers.

This is serious; only the price is a bit more friendly. Welcome to world of German sparkling wine.

To order please email orders@sourcematerialwine.com.