Image caption appears here

Add your deal, information or promotional text

offer 027

the Mosel Cellar Finale
Eiswein and TBAs
1959-2001
provenance is everything

{ There is no machine you can buy, no subscription service, no cream or online workout regimen that will give you the experience of an older wine. }
sold out

There is only one way to taste a mature wine: allow a bottle of wine to age for many decades.

Then open it.

Today, the finale of our beloved Mosel cellar. With the holidays coming up, and (hopefully) the beginning of the end of at least some of our pandemic-related problems, here's to decadence and indulgences with family.

Every tranche we've offered has sold out quickly. For this last hurrah, we had similar demand, especially as we were focusing on the grandest wines of the last half century, Eisweins and TBAs from 1959-2001. This is some serious, serious history. 

Two important and interesting notes: Until the 1980s, "Eiswein" was not a Prädikat in itself - it referred only to the state of the grapes (frozen) when they were harvested. Growers would harvest everything from Spätlese to Auslese and up to Beerenauslese, frozen, and then label them appropriately. So you'll see in this collection "Auslese Eiswein" and "Beerenauslese Eiswein." There is even one "feine Spätlese Eiswein." Obviously the Beerenauslese Eiswein will be more unctuous than the Spätlese Eiswein.

Second, people often lump "Beerenauslese" and "Trockenbeerenauslese" together in their minds - both are dessert wines! While this is technically true, it's more accurate to think of Trockenbeerenauslese as the top, top, tiny percentage of dessert wines. It is a fantastical leap, in ripeness, selection, labor and rarity, from one to the other. Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese are both dessert wines, in the same ways a Honda and a Ferrari are both cars.

As we've noted with all these offers: Old wine is always a risk and all sales are final. In nearly all cases, you'll be able to see the bottles that are for sale - we have made condition reports but please look for yourself. Finally, no sales are final until you are confirmed with a paid invoice!

Before we conclude, we did want to outline a few larger thoughts on thinking about and buying older wine.

We are pricing everything very fairly, but there is risk involved here. We have opened too many bottles that had protruding corks and low fills and where the wine inside looked like motor oil... that turned out to be great wines. Conversely, we've had too many bottles that looked just perfect in every way, that contained wine that was dead, or corked, etc. In most cases we have pictures of the very bottles for sale, so you can make your own choice. But if you buy a bottle, it is yours and there will be no refunds of any kind, period. We're simply giving you the same terms we were given - terms that we believe are fair.

Second: some important comments on aesthetics. These wines are from the collection of three people in the Mosel who worked for various estates in various capacities for many decades. Thus, the bottles have many aesthetic peculiarities, such as neutral capsules (meaning the wines were at some point given new capsules that were bought generically and do not have the estate's logos, etc.) or even waxed tops over the capsules. Both practices were common for loving collectors who had natural cellars; obviously people working in the industry would have had the knowledge on how to do such things and easy access to any required equipment.

These wines all come from natural cellars so they can be quite dirty to our 21st-century eye. It's ridiculous to say, but please note that a ripped or stained label does not affect the wine inside the bottle! Natural cellars, with their extreme humidity, are great for corks and wines, and very bad for paper and metals - thus the collection is a veritable showcase of how paper and various metals can be stained, dirtied, made moldy, corroded, ripped, etc. We have tried to make honest assessments of the things that can (but don't always) indicate quality: fill levels, capsule and cork condition and wine color. These are crude guides, to be honest, but they are all we have.

Third: Provenance is everything. We have at this point tasted over six cases of wine from this collection - a mixture of quality control and our own passion and interest. For nearly every lot we have tasted, we took the worst-looking bottle (lowest fill, darkest color, etc.) and nearly every wine has been good, to very good, to simply awesome. All in all, we can say with complete transparency that we believe this collection represents some of the better mature German wines we've seen on the market in a long time. Perhaps that is underselling the collection and its condition. With wines like this, provenance is everything. While all wines likely weren't bought on release, given the collectors' roles in the industry, it is safe to assume that nearly every wine went directly from the estate into their cellars. They were brought to the U.S. this spring in a temperature-controlled container and now rest in a temperature-controlled warehouse. As far as wines that are decades old, it doesn't get much better than this very often.

Fourth: These wines are in stock and ready to ship!

Finally, a few random notes on drinking and experiencing older wines, if you don't have much experience.

Corks crumble. Most of the corks used in the latter part of the 20th century were just not meant to age for many, many decades. They crumble upon opening with a normal corkscrew even if they were perfectly stored. Save yourself a lot of headaches and buy an "Ah-So" or a Durand opener. The former can be had for around $10; the latter is expensive at $150 but well worth it if you have many older bottles to open. Have a paper towel around and once you remove the cork, wipe the inside of the top of the bottle. Have a decanter around and a fine sieve if you have one. If a cork does fall into the bottle, simply pour the wine out into a decanter and through the sieve to keep the cork or cork-crumble out. We have saved countless wines like this. In short, just be prepared. Older wines do require more work; they can be well worth it.

Old Riesling needs air. Allow time for the wine to breathe. I don't normally recommend decanting older German wines, but many people seem to feel like there is a stopwatch that starts the second you open an older bottle and you better drink it before the wine goes bad. Many older red wines do seem to lose some of their heady perfume, their fruit, after a shorter time open, but our experience with older Riesling has almost always gone the other way. Bottles opened that tasted corked, funky, brothy, smoky, dank, mossy or just plain bizarre... often resolve themselves with a half-hour or much longer, open. Good bottles often improve into great bottles. I have had many experiences where bottles written off as dead or just not good, have transformed themselves into lovely wines with a few hours. I've even had some wines show as good or better on day two - even wines 40-50 years old. I'm not saying open all these old wines in the morning to consume at midnight, I'm just saying give the wines time.

Hopefully that covers everything. We are so excited to be presenting this history, to be drinking these older wines. If you have any questions, please ask!

Stephen and Robert

Notify me when this product is available:

Search

z