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Müller-Ruprecht
Grand Cru Dry January III
two sides of the pig's stomach
Saumagen N and H

{ the third of a 3-part series }
sold out


We first presented the wines of Müller-Ruprecht in the fall of 2020, as part of Source Material's second offer, Keller's 'Golden Generation.'

Klaus Peter had chosen the Müller-Ruprecht 2019 Saumagen "N," a Grand Cru dry Riesling sourced from a special, cooler-climate parcel of the large Saumagen site called "Nill." In addition to the shade and fierce wind this parcel sees, it also has more limestone in the soil than nearly any other part of the limestone-driven Saumagen, giving the wine a special, distinctive, cooling minerality. The wine has a certain energy.

This bottling has been one of the most-talked about wines we've offered.

The Wineberserkers board all but lit up with reviews. "An absolute show stopper! ...it is full of life, and moving." The well-respected taster Martin Zwick in Germany wrote the following about the 2020: "Load your truck! This is amazing juice, so fresh, such purity and extremely sublime... tastes like Norwegian glacier water."

Today we present a Grand Cru master class in terroir, a wine-dork's dream, an offer that truly places a looking glass into the soil of one of Germany's most famous sites, the Saumagen, by showcasing two unique dry Rieslings from two very different parcels in the same legendary vineyard.

First, the 2020 Saumagen "N," the newest release of Keller's favorite bottling from the estate, described above. Next to this we place the 2020 Saumagen "H," sourced from a warmer parcel in the Saumagen called "Horn," closer to the village. The Horn parcel has less limestone, more loess and loamy soils. The wine, correspondingly, has more weight and breadth.

Yet both wines are fascinating treatises on a more elevated, more lifted, fresher-feeling Pfalz.

If the excitement is easy to understand (you just have to taste), the style at Müller-Ruprecht is hard to exactly place. The incisive yet grand GGs of Rebholz are perhaps the easiest comparison. Both estates somehow focus the power of the Pfalz, shape the sunshine-filled landscape into wines of delineation and lift. Yet the Müller-Ruprecht wines are somehow perhaps bouncier - airier? They feel a shade lighter?

In other ways the wines remind us of the Nahe Rieslings of Schäfer-Fröhlich: the artful use of reduction, the sense of both transparency and a coiled-up energy.

None of these comparisons exactly capture the energy here; the style feels unique.

Verily, Müller-Ruprecht is quickly becoming one of the more talked-about estates in Germany. The 2019ers were for sure a break-out vintage for Philipp and Sabine Wöhrwag, the young couple behind Müller-Ruprecht. The 2020 collection adds a further articulation of their style, it shows they are learning more about the dimensions and personalities of their vineyards.

It's an exciting story to watch unfolding. Here is your chance to get first in line, to taste the still-affordable Grand Crus of an estate to watch. Supporting estates - supporting people like Philipp and Sabine - is exactly what we want to be doing with Source Material.

Thank you as always for the support.

Stephen and Robert

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